The further offshore you go, the better the birds get. Coastal waters have gulls — useful, adaptable, irredeemably ordinary. By the time you've crossed the continental shelf and the depth under your keel is measured in thousands of meters, the gulls are gone and the oceanic birds appear: species that exist in a different relationship with the sea entirely, that eat and sleep on the wing, that return to land only to breed, that navigate ocean basins using mechanisms we're still working to fully understand.

Learning to identify offshore birds requires some application — the field is genuinely complex, with many species showing significant variation by age, sex, and season — but the reward is proportionate. A wandering albatross following your boat in the Southern Ocean is one of the most compelling living things on the planet. A Wilson's storm petrel dancing on the surface of the North Atlantic at night, picking items from the chop with its feet, is so extraordinary in behavior that it seems more myth than bird. And a frigate bird circling ahead on a blue-water passage means something very specific and very useful if you know what to do with the information.

The Albatross

The wandering albatross (Diomedea exulans) has the largest wingspan of any living bird — 3.1 to 3.5 meters, occasionally exceeding 3.7 meters in large males. It is built almost entirely for flight. The wing is long, narrow, and stiff, optimized for dynamic soaring — the technique by which an albatross extracts energy from the boundary layer between wind and wave surface, banking down into the trough to build speed, then arcing up into the faster air above to gain altitude, repeating this cycle indefinitely without a wingbeat. A wandering albatross can travel 1,000 kilometers a day. Satellite tracking studies show individuals circumnavigating the Southern Ocean continuously. The bird covers ocean the way most species cover a field.

It follows ships because a vessel moving through the water disturbs the surface layer and surfaces food items — fish, squid, marine invertebrates — that the albatross feeds on. The bird is not following you out of curiosity or companionship, though it will do so for days. It is exploiting the zone of turbulence behind your stern as a productive feeding area. Watching an albatross work the wind behind a boat in the Southern Ocean — banking within meters of the wave crests, riding each gust with minimal adjustment, covering sea that would exhaust a human dinghy sailor — is a study in optimized design.

The maritime prohibition on killing an albatross is one of the oldest and most widely observed superstitions of the age of sail. Sailors of the British, Dutch, and Portuguese traditions across centuries held that albatrosses carried the souls of dead sailors. The specific bad luck assigned to killing one — storms, disaster, the death of the killer — is documented across so many independent sources that it functions as a cultural universal among offshore sailors of the North Atlantic and Southern Ocean traditions. Coleridge's Rime of the Ancient Mariner (1798) codified the belief for English literature, but the tradition it drew on is much older.

The biological reality adds weight to the superstition. Wandering albatrosses breed on sub-Antarctic islands — South Georgia, Crozet, Kerguelen — returning to the same nest site year after year with the same partner. They raise a single chick over 11 months, the longest fledging period of any bird. They live to 70 years. Longline fishing kills tens of thousands of albatrosses annually as bycatch, and multiple albatross species are now threatened or endangered. The old prohibition against killing one turns out to have been correct all along.

The Petrel Family

Wilson's storm petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) breeds on the Antarctic and sub-Antarctic islands and migrates north into the Atlantic each year, reaching the waters off Newfoundland and extending down through the tropics. It may be the most numerically abundant bird on earth — estimates range from 50 million to over 100 million individuals. Despite this, it appears on most Atlantic passages as a surprise: an impossibly small bird, about the size of a house sparrow, skimming the wave surface with its wings held stiffly horizontal, dangling its yellow-webbed feet to the water as it picks food items from the surface. The leg-dangling behavior looks like the bird is walking on the water. Hence the name — the reference is to the disciple Peter walking on the Sea of Galilee, and the generic name Oceanites reflects the same story.

Wilson's storm petrels follow ships because, again, the turbulence behind a vessel surfaces food. They'll track a boat for hours, dropping back when the food concentration lessens and coming forward when it improves. At night they'll appear in the wake glow of bioluminescence, tiny bodies visible only as small dark shapes against the lit water.

Cory's shearwater (Calonectris borealis) is larger — about the size of a small gull — and the dominant shearwater of the Mediterranean and North Atlantic. It is named for shearing: the technique of flying in close proximity to wave faces, tilting the body so that the wingtip nearly or actually contacts the water surface, extracting energy from the upward deflection of air off the wave. A Cory's shearwater in a good wind working a set of swells looks like a bird that has discovered surfing. It angles into the wave face, rides the deflected air up, banks over the crest, drops into the trough, and repeats — covering miles without apparent effort, rarely flapping. In the Mediterranean in summer, these birds are present on virtually every offshore passage and will follow a boat for extended periods, apparently interested in whatever the vessel disturbs.

Manx shearwaters are the smaller, more contrasted species of the North Atlantic — dark above, white below, rapid flapping alternated with gliding. They breed on Welsh and Irish islands in enormous colonies and migrate as far as Argentina. A Manx shearwater can live 50 years. A bird banded as a chick on Bardsey Island off Wales was still breeding at 55 years old — the oldest wild bird ever recorded in Britain. On Atlantic passages heading south from the British Isles, Manx shearwaters are the most common offshore bird through autumn.

Tropicbirds

Tropicbirds are the elegant birds of the tropical oceans — brilliant white, with long central tail streamers that can extend as far as the bird's body length, and a red or yellow bill depending on species. Red-billed tropicbirds are common in the Caribbean, Atlantic tropics, and across the Pacific; white-tailed tropicbirds appear from Bermuda south through the tropics. They're aerial feeders, plunge-diving for fish and squid from significant height, and they fly with a distinctive deep, rowing wingbeat quite different from the effortless soaring of the albatross and shearwaters.

Tropicbirds are typically solitary or in pairs, not in the flocks that shearwaters form. A single tropicbird crossing an offshore passage at altitude, the tail streamers catching the sunlight, is one of those sightings that pulls you out of whatever you were thinking about and makes you remember where you are.

The Booby on Deck

Boobies — the blue-footed booby of the Galapagos-area Pacific and the brown booby found throughout the tropical Atlantic and Pacific — are large, conspicuously colored seabirds with a reputation for landing on boats at sea and refusing to leave. The behavior is real and has a simple explanation: boobies are exhausted. A booby that lands on a boat in the middle of a passage is typically a bird that has been flying for a long time in conditions that didn't favor easy feeding, is hungry and tired, and has identified your rigging or deck as a safe place to rest.

The correct response is to leave it alone. Offer a small container of fresh water — offshore birds are often dehydrated — but don't try to handle the bird or shoo it away. A rested booby will depart on its own schedule. A bird that you chase around the deck, manhandle, or try to throw back into the air is a bird that will injure itself and you. They have sharp bills, they use them, and they are stronger than they look.

Booby guano on your sails and deck is the inconvenient aspect of this arrangement. Most offshore sailors learn to rig a light deterrent — a few lengths of flag halyard strung across the favored perching spots — while leaving a less critical section of deck available for the bird to use. This is a reasonable compromise.

The blue-footed booby of the Galapagos has become somewhat famous for the mating display — the male's foot-lifting walk that advertises the vibrancy of his blue feet as an honest signal of health. The offshore brown booby you'll meet at sea is less colorful but equally imperious in its assessment of your boat as a temporary hotel.

Frigatebirds: Thieves and Land Finders

The magnificent frigatebird (Fregata magnificens) and its relatives are the kleptoparasites of the seabird world — birds that steal their food from other birds. The frigatebird cannot land on the water (its plumage lacks waterproofing and it would become waterlogged) but it is an extraordinarily agile flier with the highest wing loading to body weight ratio of any bird. It can outmaneuver virtually anything in the air. The strategy: identify a booby or tern returning to a colony with a fish, chase it until the loaded bird drops or regurgitates its catch, intercept the falling food item before it hits the water. The chase is aerobatic, fast, and almost always successful.

Watching frigatebirds work a colony is a lesson in ruthless effectiveness. They're not scavengers and they're not passive; they're active predators of the air who have identified other birds' fishing effort as a more reliable food source than doing the fishing themselves. In ecological terms, the behavior works because the cost of the chase is lower than the cost of the fishing. The frigatebird optimizes. You can't help but admire it slightly while also feeling bad for the booby.

The navigation application is straightforward and reliable: frigatebirds roost on land at night because they cannot sleep at sea. They range out to feed during the day and return to land by evening. If you see frigatebirds circling ahead of you on an offshore passage — particularly if they're circling rather than traveling — land is within roughly 100 nautical miles. Pre-GPS Polynesian navigators used this indicator, along with cloud formations over islands, bird flight direction at dawn and dusk, and swell refraction patterns, to identify the presence and direction of land at distances beyond visual range. The frigate bird's evening return to roost is a directional indicator: note the direction they're flying. Land is somewhere along that bearing, not very far.

Seabirds and Navigation

The role of birds in Pacific navigation is documented in both the oral traditions of Polynesian and Micronesian voyaging cultures and in the modern scholarship that has worked to reconstruct those systems. The wayfinding system used by traditional Pacific navigators — the system that enabled settlement of the Pacific from Hawaii to New Zealand to Easter Island without instruments — included specific bird knowledge as one of several redundant information sources.

Golden plovers, which migrate between Alaska and Hawaii, fly in the direction of the Hawaiian Islands each autumn. Traditional Hawaiian navigators knew the departure time and direction of plover migration and used it as a seasonal calibration. Frigate birds indicate land at medium range. Terns, which don't range far from nesting colonies, indicate land at shorter range. Boobies and noddies have different ranging behaviors and are read differently. The navigators were not using birds as a primary instrument — they were using stars, swells, and winds for that — but birds were part of a rich ecological reading of the ocean that could detect a 10-mile-wide island from 100 miles away on a consistent basis.

On a modern offshore passage with GPS, this knowledge is interesting rather than operationally critical. But watching a frigate bird circle ahead of you as you approach an island and knowing what it means — that land is there, within reasonable distance, just beyond the horizon in that direction — is to participate in a form of ocean literacy that goes back a very long way.

More from the wildlife section

Also: Marine Life at Sea and in Anchorages  ·  Celestial Navigation